John Delach

On The Outside Looking In

Tag: cruising

The Final Voyage of the Big U

Isabelle Taft and Joel Wolfram reported in the Friday, February 21st edition of The New York Times that the SS United States had finally set sail for Mobile, AL around 12:30 pm the previous  Wednesday. Four harbor tugs, two belonging to Moran Towing and two belonging to McAllister Towing finally jostled the liner away from Pier 82 where she had been docked since 1996.

The Coast Guard actually delayed the tow for 24 hours prior to it setting sail questioning the seaworthiness of the entire operation. It appears that a new group wants to base the ship in Red Hook, Brooklyn may have caused this delay. However, someone within the USCG changed their mind and the tow was released the next day. We may never know what actually happened.   

The tugs maneuvered the Big U into the main channel of the Delaware River facing south where Vinik No. 6, an old dog of an ocean-going tug built in 1970, hooked up to the ship’s bow and slowly began the long tow down the East Coast to Key West, make the U-turn south the Key West and begin the final part across the Gulf of Mexico to Alabama Dry Dock in Mobile a distance of  2,130 miles.

The harbor tugs assisted the tow down river until the convoy reached Delaware Bay where they peeled away and headed back north. Vinik No. 6 continued south into the Atlantic Ocean. By Sunday, they had reached Charlestown, SC.

Like other fans of the Big U, I kept a daily log of the distance the tow had travelled, but it didn’t occur to me why it took the tug, Vanik No. 6, four days to only reach Charleston. By Thursday they reached Key West and by Saturday, Fort Myers in the Gulf of Mexico. Surprisingly, the tow arrived at its destination, Mobile Bay on Monday at 10 AM, one day early.

All’s well that ends well or so it seemed to be, but it may have taken prayers to the three patron saints of mariners, St. Brendan, the Navigator, St. Nicholas and St. Christopher to ensure that the tow trip was a success.   

It tuned out that there was a reason that the initial part of the voyage took so long. The captain of the tug boat admitted on Monday, Feb. 24th that there had been some trouble that weekend off of Virginia Beach when the Big U encountered 45mph winds and 14-ft high waves that caused the ocean liner to turn sideways. The captain admitted that, instead of sailing south, the movements of the Big U forced the tug to pull the liner east to west and west to east. If the tug had tried to continue sailing south, it would have lost the Big U!

He was forced to slow down and finally to “heave-to” and hold her in place until the storm passed. I don’t know if anyone prayed to the patron saints, but that turned out to be the only brush with bad weather that they encountered during the voyage.

I for one hope that this tow trip ended the sad saga of the SS United States when she finally tied-up at Alabama Dry Dock and Shipbuilding after 56 years of deterioration and failed promises, concepts and bad ideas. If all goes well during the next two years, all hazardous material still on board the SS United States will be removed and the bare and clean hull will have holes cut into the sides near the waterline to facilitate and control the scuttling of the liner off of Fort Walton Beach along Florida’s panhandle. The Big U will rest in 180 feet of water as the largest artificial reef to support marine life and recreational divers.

Even though the renegade Red Hook group couldn’t stop the tow to Mobile, they have not given up on their crack-pot concept. Thankfully, the Big U is in Alabama and I doubt they can stop the conversion work or pay for a second two north to Red Hook.   

Other than that, I will not honor their plan except to say: “Please return to wherever you came from and leave this wonderful ship alone. Fifty-six years of schemes and dreams are far more than enough and we, the admirers of this great ship don’t need any more half-witted ideas that will only prolong her agony. Let America’s beloved ship be converted into the world’s artificial reef to foster sea life and for all to treasure while you please slip back into the night to wherever it is you came from.”          

The Big U’s Forty-Five Years in Purgatory

In 1969, when United States Lines took the SS United States out of service while the ship was receiving her annual check-up at Newport News Ship Building, the operators essentially walked away from America’s flagship. However, US Lines was only the operator. The real owner was Uncle Sam under the control of the Maritime Administration, MARAD, that still had plans for this magnificent ship.

The Department of Defense proposed that the Big U be converted to a hospital ship as her size and speed would allow the liner to be rapidly deployed to address any crisis around the world. The plan would have included up to 23 operating theaters,  1,600 hospital beds and a full set of specialist rooms comparable to any major land-based hospital. The navy ultimately rejected the plan as being too expensive and impractical.

MARAD decided that the holding on to the Big U was also impractical and the navy finally declassified the ship’s design features.  In 1980, MARAD disposed of the liner by selling it for $7 Million to a Seattle based developer who planned to revitalize the Big U as a floating condominium. But this owner’s financial status deteriorated so he neglected the vessel still docked in Norfolk. Consequently, her interiors became thoroughly ruined with water damage and mold.

The ships fittings and furniture were spared this fate, but not in a good way. They were gone before the water damage took place because he sold them at auction to pay creditors. Three hundred thousand fans and collectors participated in the week-long auction and raised $I.65 million for the objects taken from the ship. Still, the owner was forced into bankruptcy. The United States was seized by US Marshals and put up for auction.

The new owners planned to refurbish the ship and return it to trans-Atlantic service paired with the Queen Elizabeth 2.  They only paid $2.6 million at auction as the Big U was loaded with asbestos as its insulation. This was common for ships built in the 1950s. As we know, the world had come to understand that breathing in asbestos would cause cancer that can kill the victim. So, it had to be removed.

On June 4, 1992 the ship was towed to the Sevastopol Shipyard in Ukraine and underwent asbestos removal from 1993 to 1994. The interior of the ship was almost completely stripped down to the bulkheads. The open lifeboats were also removed as they were obsolete and violated international rules. In June of 1996, she was once again towed across the Atlantic to a new home in Philadelphia. Starting in 1997 a continuous chain of potential saviors entered the scene with all kinds of “what if ideas” only to eventually slink away into the night.

They included Operating the ship as a cruiser in Hawaii and convert her to a floating  hotel like the Queen Mary in Long Beach.  Norwegian Cruise Lines, (NCL) bought the ship, deemed the hull to be sound and in 2004 commenced feasibility studies regarding retrofitting the Big U. Once NCL realized this would cost between $700 million and One Billion, they lost interest.

The SS United States Conservancy was created in 2009 led by William Gibbs granddaughter, Susan Gibbs, who set out to save the ship from being scrapped by raising funds to purchase her. On July 30, H. F. Lenfest, a Philadelphia media entrepreneur and philanthropist, pledged a matching grant of $300,000 to help the Conservancy purchase the ship from NCL. In November of 2010, the Conservancy announced a new plan to develop a “multi-purpose waterfront complex as part of a stalled Foxwoods Casino project only to have this idea collapse a month later when the state Gaming Control Board revoked Foxwood’s license. Still, the Conservancy bought the Big U from NCL in February of 2011.

The Conservancy’s record for re-purposing was no better than all the others. Every project to re-locate the Big U failed; in particular, New York and Miami. All the while, the Conservancy’s funding could not keep up with the monthly costs of $80,000 to keep the vessel moored in Philadelphia.

By 2018, the situation became more desperate. Several developers proposed variations on the same old solutions. By 2021, the owners of Philadelphia’s Pier 82, where the ship had rested all these years had had enough. They went to court to increase the daily rent to $1,700 and sued for $160,000 in back rent. In June of 2024, Federal Judge, Anita Brody found in favor of the pier’s owners and gave the Conservancy 90 days to remove the Big U.

That’s when Florida’s Okaloosa County announced plans to buy and sink the ship to create the world’s largest artificial reef. MS Gibbs welcomed this solution.

Let’s face it, forty-five years is much too long. Let her go. Let the Big U’s purgatory finally end. For everyone who loves the Big U, let us pray that this plan becomes a reality.