Two Additions to My Bucket List: Part One-Birthplace of Chicken Tenders
Happy New Year
Thanks to separate pieces in The New York Times, I have added two items to my bucket list. The first appeared in the Food Section of the paper’s October 3rd edition under the headline, “In the Birthplace of the Chicken Tender.”
Datelined Wednesday, October 2, 2024, from Manchester, NH, Peter Wells began his piece with, “Fifty Years ago, the breaded, fried chicken tender as we know it was invented here.
“At least, that’s what they say in Manchester. Such claims are usually impossible to prove, and the picture is clouded in this case because of the loose ways the term chicken tender gets thrown around.”
Wells explained, that non-purists will use the name, “chicken tenders to refer to any strip of boneless chicken.” To chicken farmers, tenders refer to the tenderloin, a muscle along the backbone that gets very little exercise, hence its tenderness. These floppies of white-meat didn’t begin to appear on menus until 1974.
“If you were born in the United States more that 50 years ago, you can probably remember a world without chicken tenders. If you grew up later, you can’t.
“Today the chicken tender is not just familiar. It is triumphant. It is a fixture of school lunches and kids’ menus, of all-night diners and gas stations. It can be found at airports, food courts and stadiums.”
In 1917, two Greek Americans immigrated to Manchester, NH; Arthur Pappas and Louis Canotas. They opened a candy store that they called Puritan that grew while they re-located several times over the years. “In 1974, Arthur’s children added a large sit-down restaurant behind the shop, the Puritan Backroom.”
A fry cook told one of the Pappas kids, Charlie, that he had a small piece of chicken he didn’t know what to do with that turned out to be the tenderloin. This piece of meat performs no task and, consequentially, is a tender piece of meat. Served alone, it’s also tasteless until Charlie hit upon a method for preparing it.
“Before it is fried, the meat soaks in a pineapple-juice marinade. It is also served with what the Puritan calls ‘duck sauce,’ a thinnish, yellow, sweetish liquid.”
Early on, Pappas’ tenders were outsold by his barbecued lamb, broiled chicken breasts and pizza. But something about the taste of fried white meat dipped in rejiggered duck sauce captured Manchester’s imagination. Word spread; sales climbed while imitators arose. Eventually, chicken tenders began to outsell everything else and became mandatory at birthday parties, bar mitzvahs and wedding receptions celebrated at the Puritan.
“The tender has other things going for it, too:
‘Some of the popularity of the tender is that it is a whole-muscle white meat that doesn’t have to be cut or portioned, and, when cooked, it makes a great hand-held item,’ said Terrence O’Keefe, the content director of agribusiness news at WATT Globad Media. The tender could, in other words, go from the box to the batter to the deep frier to the table in minutes.”
Chicken tenders served at The Puritan has evolved over the years. “Besides its classic chicken tenders in duck sauce, the restaurant now offers tenders in a spicy breading, coconut-clustered tenders, and a version made by drenching the original recipe Buffalo-wing sauce.
The Manchester city council agreed to issue a proclamation proclaiming Manchester, NH to be the capital of chicken tenders.
Not to be left behind by this amazing fact, a fact of which I was totally ignorant, I’ve added a trip to Manchester for lunch serving of the original tenders at the Puritan. My target date for fulfillment is a weekday next summer when we are spending time at Little House, our vacation home in Marlow, about an hour away from Manchester. The game-plan is to join our good friends, Geoff and Judy Jones at the Puritan. They will drive down from their vacation home in Denmark, ME, slightly more than an hour and one half from Manchester. The most important reason for making the trip to the Puritan is their dining room has a full bar! I sent the Jones’ the piece from the NYT and what I discovered about the Puritan’s bar and they signed on for a lunch next summer, God willing, and the Creek don’t rise.