John Delach

On The Outside Looking In

Mike Battle’s Obituary

An incomplete and stingy obituary for Mike Battle appeared in the March 13 edition of Newsday. Originally written by the Los Angeles Times, it mostly paid attention to his college career at USC with the only reference to his short pro career as follows: “He was chosen in the 12th round of the 1969 NFL Draft by the Jets and played for two seasons in 1969 and ’70.”

Battle’s only professional claim to fame was entirely omitted  by in this obituary.

This story is an excerpt from my book: “17 Lost Seasons” published in 2009.

The Giants and Jets agreed to meet in an exhibition game at Yale Bowl on Sunday, August 17, 1969. Tickets were at a premium, but, my cousin,  Bill Christman, my brother-in-law, Tom Donlon and I were able to grab three. We left early that Sunday morning. Tom drove and Bill practically came directly from the hospital where his wife, Del, had given birth to their second son, Tom, earlier that morning.

The atmosphere building up for the game ,0was tense. Norm Miller set the tone in the Daily News:

The Jets and the Giants stage their Fun City Bowl today for the championship of the five boroughs, and never has so much fuss been made over a happening meant to be only a trial run in the town of New Haven, Conn. The Jets, champions of all football, were four-point favorites over the Giants in the clash that has whipped up more fan enthusiasm in Our Town than anything since the old-time Giant-Dodgers baseball rivalries. More than 70,000 of the “in’ crowd will buck the terrible traffic jam and the inevitable heat to sit in Yale Bowl (game time 2 p.m.) Millions will listen to the live radio broadcasts on WNEW and WABC and millions more will watch the two taped TV replays, the first at midnight tonight on CBS-TV (Ch. 2) and the second at 8:30 tomorrow night on WOR-TV (CH. 9).

Miller was right about the traffic. We left early enough to beat most of it on the way to New Haven, but leaving post-game was impossible. We settled in to play touch football with other stranded fans. The game lasted until a chap who thought of himself as a jock punted my football onto the roof of a Yale field house. It was the perfect ending for a miserable day. The Daily News’ sports headline reinforced the pain that Giant fans felt:

Jets 37, Giants 14

Broadway Joe, 14-for-16 Hurls

3 TD Passes

Norm Miller was angry with Giants and gave them no quarter. “With all the prestige of the championship of the city as table stakes, Joe Namath cleaned out the Giants and left ‘em for broke.”

The Jets took a 17-0 lead when they again stopped the Giants offense forcing Big Blue to punt.

Jets rookie, Mike Battle, became an unlikely hero as he sealed Big Blue’s fate.  Battle, here-to-fore best known for his strange ability to chew, eat and swallow glass stunned the crowd with an 85-yard punt return with 1:45 left in the second quarter. Increasing the J.E.T.S. – Jets – JETS  JETS lead to 24-0 and crushing the Giants and their fans. Battle’s superb moment came when he vaulted over a would-be Giants tackler on his touchdown run. (This play would ensure that the Jets would retain Battle for the next two years of his otherwise uneventful NFL career.)

Giants head coach, Allie Sherman fared much worse. The Giants preseason record dropped to 0-4 and Dave Klein wrote, “Well Mara reacted to the Jets loss as though someone close to him had died. Mara missed a whole week of training camp for the first and only time since the war. Gene Ward wrote a column on Thursday where he tried to balance Sherman successes and failures, but he did acknowledge that …the Sam Huff trade being a goof which the fans will never forgive.

The last exhibition game against the Pittsburg Steelers on Thursday night played in Montreal, Canada decided Sherman’s fate. The Giants  lost to Pittsburg by a score of 17-13 while the sparse crowd sang “Good Bye Allie, we hate to see you go over and over again French and English.

The Giants locker room was in disarray and certain columists  were starting to report that the team was becoming unglued and subject to player feuds and dissatisfaction.

Alex Webster was appointed Sherman’s successor. Mara admitted: Of all the assistant coaches, Alex has had the least experience. But he could be an inspiring influence on a ballclub whose morale has ebbed. He loves the game, he loves the team and his popularity will go a long way toward giving everyone a lift.

It didn’t and  the long struggle continued for another ten years.        

The Final Voyage of the Big U

Isabelle Taft and Joel Wolfram reported in the Friday, February 21st edition of The New York Times that the SS United States had finally set sail for Mobile, AL around 12:30 pm the previous  Wednesday. Four harbor tugs, two belonging to Moran Towing and two belonging to McAllister Towing finally jostled the liner away from Pier 82 where she had been docked since 1996.

The Coast Guard actually delayed the tow for 24 hours prior to it setting sail questioning the seaworthiness of the entire operation. It appears that a new group wants to base the ship in Red Hook, Brooklyn may have caused this delay. However, someone within the USCG changed their mind and the tow was released the next day. We may never know what actually happened.   

The tugs maneuvered the Big U into the main channel of the Delaware River facing south where Vinik No. 6, an old dog of an ocean-going tug built in 1970, hooked up to the ship’s bow and slowly began the long tow down the East Coast to Key West, make the U-turn south the Key West and begin the final part across the Gulf of Mexico to Alabama Dry Dock in Mobile a distance of  2,130 miles.

The harbor tugs assisted the tow down river until the convoy reached Delaware Bay where they peeled away and headed back north. Vinik No. 6 continued south into the Atlantic Ocean. By Sunday, they had reached Charlestown, SC.

Like other fans of the Big U, I kept a daily log of the distance the tow had travelled, but it didn’t occur to me why it took the tug, Vanik No. 6, four days to only reach Charleston. By Thursday they reached Key West and by Saturday, Fort Myers in the Gulf of Mexico. Surprisingly, the tow arrived at its destination, Mobile Bay on Monday at 10 AM, one day early.

All’s well that ends well or so it seemed to be, but it may have taken prayers to the three patron saints of mariners, St. Brendan, the Navigator, St. Nicholas and St. Christopher to ensure that the tow trip was a success.   

It tuned out that there was a reason that the initial part of the voyage took so long. The captain of the tug boat admitted on Monday, Feb. 24th that there had been some trouble that weekend off of Virginia Beach when the Big U encountered 45mph winds and 14-ft high waves that caused the ocean liner to turn sideways. The captain admitted that, instead of sailing south, the movements of the Big U forced the tug to pull the liner east to west and west to east. If the tug had tried to continue sailing south, it would have lost the Big U!

He was forced to slow down and finally to “heave-to” and hold her in place until the storm passed. I don’t know if anyone prayed to the patron saints, but that turned out to be the only brush with bad weather that they encountered during the voyage.

I for one hope that this tow trip ended the sad saga of the SS United States when she finally tied-up at Alabama Dry Dock and Shipbuilding after 56 years of deterioration and failed promises, concepts and bad ideas. If all goes well during the next two years, all hazardous material still on board the SS United States will be removed and the bare and clean hull will have holes cut into the sides near the waterline to facilitate and control the scuttling of the liner off of Fort Walton Beach along Florida’s panhandle. The Big U will rest in 180 feet of water as the largest artificial reef to support marine life and recreational divers.

Even though the renegade Red Hook group couldn’t stop the tow to Mobile, they have not given up on their crack-pot concept. Thankfully, the Big U is in Alabama and I doubt they can stop the conversion work or pay for a second two north to Red Hook.   

Other than that, I will not honor their plan except to say: “Please return to wherever you came from and leave this wonderful ship alone. Fifty-six years of schemes and dreams are far more than enough and we, the admirers of this great ship don’t need any more half-witted ideas that will only prolong her agony. Let America’s beloved ship be converted into the world’s artificial reef to foster sea life and for all to treasure while you please slip back into the night to wherever it is you came from.”          

Taproot, the Beginning

I joined Taproot in the Fall of 2000 after I retired from Marsh & McLennan in April of that year. The group was in full bloom when I joined with a weekly attendance of twenty or more poets and writers at each session. At best, one could expect to wait at least a week between invitations to present one’s piece.. As a novice, I kept my mouth shut while I learned from our master, teacher and poet, Max Wheat and the skilled poets and prose writers. Sooner than I expected, I believe it was after my second session, Max took me aside and said, “John, your purpose for being a member of this group is to share your writing with the other members. I expect that you will submit a piece at our next session. Reluctantly, I wrote my first piece which I presented during the next session.

Late summer in New Hampshire

October 2000

Summer ends suddenly and too soon as sunshine’s daily arrival comes later and later. The sky is Kodachrome blue providing the perfect background for the trees that burn with color. It is as if they are engulfed in a silent fire set ablaze by a sun that is already low in the sky.

In the morning, my hands and face feel that first cold sting as frost forms on grass, roofs, decks and windows of vehicles left outside overnight. The sense of football is in the air. It is time to start preparing for winter. Wood must be stored so that it is accessible once the heavy snow arrives. Pools and hot tubs must be emptied, outside pipes, pipes, faucets, traps and lines must be drained and decks protected against snow that will cover them until spring.

This is not a labor of love. I have no choice but to accept the change of seasons as I put away the toys of summer for another year.

I asked Max if I should submit Autumn in New Hampshire to be part of that session’s Taproot Journal. He counseled me that I wasn’t up to that and at that time, my task was to continue writing and learn form my fellow writer’s critiques. I did and the next year, the Taproot Journal published the first piece I submitted:            

The Big Orange Dog

March 2001

Harry was the first of the big orange dogs that came into our house and showed us why Golden Retrievers are special. He set the standard for all to come. Bright and alert, his favorite pastime was swimming in the still waters of Stone Pond in Marlow, New Hampshire. Stricken with arthritis early on, this passion continued even after walking became difficult for him. We rigged a wooden ramp covered in carpet fabric to assist him into and out of the truck. We chauffeured him to local ponds and he sensed water before he saw it. Excited and agitated, he had little patience until he arrived at his favorite destination.

Disregarding his infirmary, as soon as the rear gate was opened and the ramp raised, he rushed from the truck and into the pond. In the water, strong again, he would start swimming. And what a swimmer, fast with smooth, deliberate strokes creating a graceful wake that spread across the water as he progressed in his pursuit of the tennis ball of the moment. To accommodate his range and speed, I hit the ball with an old Prince racquet as hard and as far as my strength permitted. Upon reaching the ball and capturing it in his mouth, he would return in his graceful triumphant manner. As soon as he reached shore, he released the ball, turned and plunged back into the pond swimming in the direction where he anticipated the next ball would be hit. Watching for the telltale splash, he picked up his pace and swam in its direction. If he did not see a splash in a timely manner, he lifted his chest out of the water and started swimming in larger and larger circles until he found it. Again and again he continued to swim without noticeable fatigue or loss of interest.

His endurance only ended when I finally surrendered the notion that I could outlast him. Once out of the water, the pain and stiffness returned and he let me help him back into the truck. At times I lifted him in my arms so he did not have to negotiate the ramp. I tried not to mind getting drenched in the process.

I will never forget when I first received that journal. Overwhelmed with hope, I found my name, my piece listed on Page Six. …And there it was, my first piece in print in a literary journal. Inside, I jumped for joy.

So here I am; I just turned 81; how about that!

Guess what, whenever I finish a new piece, one that I sense is good, I still feel the same way and this is one of them. 

Uncle Pete and Most Holy Cross Cemetery

Saturday mornings are my favorite time for reading my newspapers. Newsday is compact with almost half the paper dedicated to sports and The New York Times includes their Sunday features in the Saturday delivery. These include, the weekend Metropolitan section, the Book Review, The Times Magazine, the Real Estate section and the weekly Arts and Leisure section.

I usually look at the Metropolitan section first. The front page of February 16th edition featured a color photograph of a silver haired fellow wearing glasses and sporting a matching mustache standing in a cemetery covered in light snow in a tan lined overcoat, matching pants and canvas shoes inadequate for the ground conditions.

He is holding an aluminum cane / walking stick in his right hand and his coat is open reveling a navy-blue sweatshirt as he poses for the cameraman, unsmiling.  

A headline for the piece is below the fold that reads:

Respect for a Ransacked Cemetery

A Brooklyn Man honors the dead at Most Holy Trinity after grave markers are stolen.

 Ironically, the piece begins with: “Even as a small boy, Michael Hirsh loved visiting cemeteries.”

Ironic; where do I begin? First off, this piece unearthed memories, seventy-years old, and long since buried. The last time I visited Most Holy Cross Cemetery with my mother, Aunt Mildred and her daughter, my cousin Patty was just before I graduated from elementary school in 1957.

The cemetery, located in Bushwick, Brooklyn dates back to 1851 dedicated to the first Catholic German immigrants to settle in Bushwick. Stone markers or monuments were prohibited and nearly all graves were marked with wooden crosses that deteriorated with time and weather. The markers on active grave sites with living relatives would be renewed or replaced, but eventually, they all deteriorated into broken remnants of what they were.

Eventually, many of the wooden markers at Most Holy Trinity were replaced by metal markers. The Monumental Bronze Company of Bridgeport, CT began to manufacture a “white bronze” alternative to stone. It was actually zinc, far less expensive than bronze, but sturdy and resistant to rust. Sooner or later, all of these markers turned to rust and begin wasting away be they legitimate or knock-offs sold by unscrupulous suppliers.

In the late 1920s, the Public Service Commission authorized the Brooklyn, Manhattan Transit Company, (BMT) to build a new subway line from East New York through Bushwick into Manhattan. One section had to cross Most Holy Trinty Cemetery. The cemetery surrendered the unused land along its southern border, but the plot was too narrow to accommodate two tracks and a station.

The solution was to double-deck the structure. Manhattan-bound trains would remain in the subway while Canarsie-bound trains would travel on a concrete elevated structure. This became the great wall of the cemetery.

Okay, alright; so what is this unearthed memory all about?

Uncle Pete! So who in hell, is Uncle Pete?

Here’s what I remember. Uncle Pete lived one block away from my mother on Himrod Street. A visit to his railroad flat was always a test of my limited abilities as a kid. He was a retired recluse, no window was ever opened, the air was always stale. I don’t have a clue about his personal habits, but all I know is accompanying my mother’s visits to Uncle Pete attacked my senses. The smell was more than unique, it was overwhelming and extremely unpleasant.

My mom seemed oblivious to it. I figured she was faking it. My mother and Aunt Mildrid took turns taking care of this shell of an old man. I had the impression Uncle Pete was related to Mildred but, not directly to my Mom.

Much later, somehow, I figured why my mom and Aunt Mildrid sucked up to this shadow of a person. It seemed that Uncle Pete had acquired the honorary use of Von in front of his last name. How this came to be, I haven’t a clue. I looked it up, and while it can signify a royal blood connection, it can simply be a preposition used by commoners that means “of’ or ‘from.”

When Uncle Pete died, he was buried in his family plot at Most Holy Trinity Cemetery. It seems I vaguely remember that the metal marker was renewed to acknowledge his death and burial.

 We visited his grave several times before my teenage sense of right and wrong kicked in: Right: Let me do what I want. Wrong: Don’t make me do things I don’t want to do.

Adios, Uncle Pete.

But thank you for giving me this piece.      

Newspapers Never Die, They Just Fade Away

I start my day almost every morning by opening the garage door as the clock approaches 7 am to retrieve our copies of The New York Times and Newsday both delivered by the same person and both wrapped in a protective plastic bag regardless of the weather. I am fully conscience of how few of our neighbors still receive printed morning newspapers.

It was slightly over a month ago on February First when the (Newark) Star-Leger permanently ended its printed edition and forced other publications like the Jersey Journal to go digital by stopping its presses. 

Fortunately, and a bit unbelievably, we readers on Long Island still have access to five daily printed newspapers, The Times, Newsday, The Wall Street Journal, The Daily News and The New York Post.

Unfortunately, it won’t stay that way, the clock is ticking. When I was active, The Times meant more to me than any other newspaper. Today, almost twenty-five-years later, (my 25th Anniversary is April 4th,) my paper of record is Newsday. Not often, but there are days when I don’t get to The Times. Damn, it is just a shadow of what it was twenty-five years ago. The Sports Section is a joke and they actually outsourced the content to a new subsidiary they bought called the Athlete.

The daily Metropolitan Section is a memory and too much of its content has disappeared or is dedicated to Politically Correct- BS points of view.

Why continue subscribing? Because I’m too old to let it go and, every once in a while, they publish a feature that hits me like a lead weight. This actually happened last month. On Sunday, Feb. 16th, the weekly Metropolitan Section led off with a piece about Michael Hirsh, a good man trying to restore Most Holy Trinity Cemetery in Brooklyn.

OMG, this piece opened long unused file drawers in my brain about my mother, Aunt Mildred and their relationship with my Uncle Pete who is buried there and our visits to his grave. ( My piece will follow later in March.)

There it is. I can’t quit The Times so long as it remains in print, and so it goes.              

Of This and That: Thank God I’m Glad to be Back

My Radiation Treatment

Today was February 22, 2025, my eighty-first birthday and I spent the afternoon with nine members of my family at Peter Luger’s steak house in Great Neck, Long Island. In addition to celebrating my birthday, my reasoning for hosting this luncheon was to celebrate the ending of my radiation treatment for prostate cancer, a 28 daily ritual that consumed my life from January14th to February 21st. (Weekends and MLK Jr. Day off.)

God only knows what these doses of radiation have done or will do to my body, but I followed doctor’s instructions in an effort to cure my prostate cancer. Sometimes I wonder…you know what I mean…what if?

Let me share with you the major daily preparations I was required to perform in order to actually receive each dose. Nobody told me about these requirements until the chief radiation technician at my facility, Ben, explained it to me. In order to protect other organs in the vicinity of the prostate gland, I had to arrive every day with an empty bowel and a full bladder. To achieve the first goal, I drank a cup of prune juice and a large cup of extremely strong coffee every morning. By George, it worked, but over time, too well. As the days went by, the results took on a life of their own. Caution became the better part of valor except for one accident that I will leave at that.

My bladder was another story. Ben told me to consume two 16.9 bottles of water every morning from 9:15 am to 9:30 am to ensure a full bladder at 10;30 am, the schedule of my daily dose. Thankfully, I was able to fulfill this every day although the time it took me to drink this amount of water increased from fifteen minutes to forty minutes.

Ben, and his assistant, Larry, were angels and did all they could to make every day, a success. Fortunately, I completed my treatment in the scheduled amount of time. This despite warnings of five separate snow storms, two that fell on weekends, one that went out to sea and one that turned out to be rain. Praise the Lord!

To celebrate, I made those reservations at Peter Luger’s and the good times rolled again.

Demise of Pan American Flying Boats

It didn’t take long after the end of the war for Pan American to abandon its flying boat service in favor of a new generation of land planes, particularly the Douglas DC-4, the Lockheed Constellation and the Boeing Strato Cruiser.

Captain William M. Masland ended his book about his ten-year experience operating these “flying boats with wings” with a final chapter about the end of his career flying these unique airplanes. He gave the chapter a simple yet haunting title: Requiem.

In December of 1945, my crew and I waited in Lisbon for Joe Hart and his crew to bring us a ship for the return to New York. This would be winter time, long way round by way of Africa, South America and the West Indies. The route was by now well established, but I sent a message to New York asking them what schedule they wanted us to follow on the return passage.

“We  don’t care,” was the answer. The Atlantic Division had a new interest, land planes. The DC-4’s were operating and the Lockheed Constellations could be  expected any day. They’d forgotten all about the flying boats.

I soon discovered that the passengers and crew all wanted to be in New York for Christmas, so we flew for three days and most of three nights, stopping only for fuel, finally landing at Bowery Bay at two o’clock in the morning the day before Christmas. This marked the last flight of a Pan American boat into New York.

In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, courageous seafarers explored the watery world. In the twentieth century the great flying boats in similar fashion explored the atmosphere that surrounds the globe. Now the boats were finished, gone where the sailing clippers went.

The night watchman met us, no one else. No flags, no bands, no speeches, just the night watchman making his usual rounds. There never was a quieter end to a brave and glorious era.

American Export Airlines was the first airline to offer regularly scheduled landplane commercial flights across the North Atlantic. Using DC-4 aircraft, it began passenger services from New York and England via Gander on 24 October 1945. PAA started its own flights through Gander very shortly thereafter, also using DC-4s. By the start of the new year, it scheduled five DC-4s per week from London via Gander and two more from Lisbon via Gander and the Azores. A typical DC-4 flight New York-London with a stop at Gander was 17 ½ hours.

Pan American soon upgraded its fleet of aircraft. The first Constellations were delivered on 14 January 1946 and the first Stratocruisers in 1949. All of these flights also stopped at Gander.

The flying boats quickly faded. The last Boeing B-314 operating across the Pacific was the California Clipper withdrawn in 1946 and the last B-314s to go were those operating between Baltimore and Bermuda in late 1951.

In 1947, PAA moved all operations from LaGuardia’s Marine Air Terminal to the  New York International Airport in Idlewild, Queens on Jamacia Bay. Nick-named Idlewild, this facility was re-named after John F. Kennedy in 1964 after he had been assassinated.

The Marine Air Terminal fell on hard times after Pan Am left for JKF. Eventually, it was named a national historical landmark and it was refurbished by the Port of NY and NJ. Today, Delta operates their Boston and DC shuttles from this terminal.

Transatlantic flights continued to improve as newer and aircraft with longer ranges joined their fleets. The introduction of the Douglas DC-7 C Model in 1956 and that of the Lockheed L 1049 Super Constellation in 1955 finally enabled fights to by-pass Gandar. But the success of both these airliners was short lived as the Boeing 707 Jetliner entered Pan American’s trans-Atlantic service in 1958…and that is a whole new story for another time.

Important Notification:

Dear Reader, Unfortunately I must suspend On the Outside Looking In until March due to a medical issue that requires me to undergo a radiation regiment until then. I look forward to rejoining you once this regiment is behind me.

See you on the other side.             

The First Flight Around the World: Part Two

Bahrein, January 25, 1943: Having reached our destination, we awaited our orders. An army captain flying through gossiped, “Of course you know that you have to wait here until the Casablanca Conference is over. Then you are to fly Roosevelt, Churchill and Stalin out east to meet the Generalissimo.” 

He rattled on while the crew sat mouths open and eyes popping. The First Officer and I did what we could to keep the crew busy and it wasn’t until almost two weeks later that we finally received orders to embark for Ceylon. As we approached our destination, Trincomalee, we managed to make our approach in dirty weather. Visibility was only one mile, less in rainsqualls. We found the pass to China Bay and half-mile beyond it the R.A.F. moorings in Malay Cove. And that was that. In the lounge, I discovered there had been a sudden and complete change in military thinking. General Wedemeyer and two aides on their way east would now be our passengers. Disappointed, but greatly relieved that the plan to put Roosevelt and Churchill on the same plane through unfriendly skies across a wide and little frequented ocean had been scrapped.

Our next destination was the northwestern coast of Australia. We knew our airplane was overweight by one ton. I took a deep breath and opened the throttles. The engines responded with a smooth, even roar. We raced across the bay toward a low spot in the hills. We put all our blue chips on the table and the clipper lifted off easily. We were airborne at eight-fifty, local time, two minutes early. It was now the sixteenth of February and the weather remained cloudy forcing us to continue navigating by dead reckoning until well after sunset. Two hours later the upper clouds vanished allowing the navigators to shoot three stars for a fix.

This first fix in ten hours of dead reckoning showed a navigational error of thirty miles. Not perfect, but not bad, an average error of three miles every hour. I took a two-hour break before re-assuming command just before day break. We were in a slow decent and an hour and a half later we leveled off at one thousand feet. It was now broad daylight and the last of the clouds had vanished. A half-hour later land came up out of the horizon ahead of us. And the automatic pilot tracked us directly over the Fraser Lighthouse, the marker for our arrival.

After one circuit of Exmouth Gulf, we located a fueling tender and landed four minutes later. Colonel Arnold came aboard in a foul mood. His relationship with PAA had soured and I sensed that he decided to blame us for the president’s cancellation. He flew with us on a short hop to Perth where we picked up twenty-six homeward bound U.S. Naval officers. Arnold left us there together with General Wedemeyer and I never saw either of them again.

We left Perth in the late afternoon so as to make a daylight landing in Brisbane where we began the long road home. After leaving Australia, we first stopped at the beautiful harbor in Noumea, New Caledonia where we slept on cots. From Noumea, we were forced to stay south of the equator for the next two days before heading Northwest for Pearl Harbor. Remember, this was early 1943 and the Japanese still controlled most of the Central Pacific including Wake and Guam.

Our route took us by way of Fiji and Canton Island with an overnight stop at each. The next morning, we decided to postpone our flight to Honolulu to tackle the repairs needed to restore the engines that had given us trouble back to working order. It was a beautiful night and we were soon airborne. The sun was three hours up when we landed at Pearl Harbor after a flight of fourteen hours. That night at dinner in the Moana Hotel, our entire passenger list came trooping into the dining room in good spirits, dropped a lei around my neck, and presented me with a handsome pen-and-pencil set, a generous thing to do.

After our first attempt to fly to San Francisco was aborted because of engine problems, we corrected the issues and left Pearl Harbor the next day. On arrival, fog was the problem, but I followed the letdown we devised eight years before for the China Clipper to deal with the fog. We flew south overhead the Oakland beacon before letting down. When about over the San Mateo Bridge, turned back and had the whole bay ahead of us to land where the fog was the thinnest and the steam traffic was nil.

We checked into the St, Francis Hotel, two to a room. The next day provided the first chance  for the crew to let their loved ones know they were still alive and almost home. The lineup of crew members at the telegraph desk was overwhelming. I moved on to take care of other business., leaving the hot blood of youth to pour out its affection via Western Union.

Next afternoon, we set off for New York and home with “just one more river to Cross.”

Our flight across the continent in a seaplane would be as long a flight as we had attempted, more than twenty hours. There was no help to be had from the westerly winds that night; the high-pressure saw to that. The ship would be heavy at departure, too heavy to top the cloud-covered Sierras. Well, all right, then, go under the clouds.

We did, wriggling through the San Bernadino pass under the cloud deck and clearing the trees, or whatever it is that passes for vegetation in those parts, by a positive figure, and that covered that problem, with the whole night ahead of us for coping with the next. We aimed for Atlanta by way of Fort Worth. From Atlanta, we could either continue to New York or turn south for Miami and clear skies. At mid-watch I turned the ship over to Austen and climbed into my berth in the aft crew quarters. When Mc Goven woke me, I asked him how we were doing.

“Ten minutes ahead,” he answered. “The winds are a bit better than forecast.”

I went forward to the flight deck. Tonight, the engines all sang in harmony. We had a half-hour to go to Atlanta. Time to make a decision. I sat down at my desk and over a cup of coffee went through the radio messages It still came out the same, everything north of Charleston was subject to overcast and fog, everything south, sunshine.

Prudence said, “Play it safe. Go to Miami, wait for the front to clear New York and fly home tomorrow.”

But conscience said, “You have flown into unknown places with worse weather. You know the Jersey coast. Go home and quit stalling.”

The first officer entered the flight deck, a questioning look on his face.

“We’ll carry on to New York, Mr. Austen. I’ll relieve you on the hour.”

Hours later it began to turn light in the east. Near Baltimore we peeled off the airway and headed east across the pine barrens of Jersey groping our way down through the layers of cloud that looked like torn and dirty laundry. We found the ocean somewhere north of Cape May, returned to the beach, and followed the line of the surf. We flew toward New York harbor passing Wildwood, Ocean City, the steel pier at Atlantic City, which called for a short climb to clear it. Then Ocean Grove, Asbury Park, and finally, Sandy Hook. The ceiling here was higher. We came up the East River over the bridges, not under, and landed in Bowery Bay at nine twenty in the morning, double daylight-saving time.

Ed Mc Vitty stood on the dock to greet us, a broad smile on his face.

“They took it for a joke when you sent us the message from Honolulu saying you’d be here this morning when the offices open but I told them to have the beaching cradle on the railway by nine. It’s ready for you now.”

“Sorry to be twenty-minutes late, Ed. We had a problem in San Francisco getting security data.”

“Never mind, Bill. If you didn’t make it when the office opened, at least you’re in good time for the coffee break.”

And so ended that voyage, the long way around the world, crossing the equator four times, through unfriendly skies, thirty thousand miles in all.    

The First Flight Around the World: Part One

Dear Reader

I just finished the best book I ever found on the history of Pan American’s flying boats. The book is sort of an auto-biography of the author’s experience flying these boats with wings from 1935 to 1945. His name was William M. Masland, who graduated through the ranks from mechanic in 1935 to Captain in 1943. He retired in 1966 making his way from Flying Boats to Boeing 707s. He died in 1986 at 79.  

He used his vast experience flying these boats in missions that surveyed both the Pacific route from San Francisco to Manila and Hong Kong with overnight stops at Honolulu, Midway Island, Wake Island and Guam. Pan American had to build all of the facilities on Miday, Wake and Guam to accommodate and feed their passengers and crews in first class style and service the clippers. He also flew across the Atlantic part of the PAA crew dispatched to survey the routes and stopping points for flights to Southampton such as Newfoundland, Iceland and Shannon, Ireland.

Ultimately, he became the captain who first flew around the world in 1943.

Unfortunately, since Masland was an engineer by background, he titled his book: “Through the Back Doors of the World in a Ship that Had Wings,” a title only an engineer could love. In researching this book, I discovered it had been published privately by Masland in 1985 with a price of $14.50

Needless to say, that price is long gone as are most copies of his book. Mary Ann gave me the book for Christmas and paid the exorbitant price of $91. Since then, I have found several copies for sale with prices ranging from $70 to $160.

Outrageous-without a doubt and, if you have enough of an interest in flying boats, the Pan American Historical Foundation Collection may fulfill your curiosity.

When we went to war in December of 1941, the Government requisitioned PAA’s fleet of Boeing’s B-317 Flying Boats.(*) But Uncle Sam was wise enough not to dismantle the airlines infrastructure, its flight crews or their operational staff. This included the airline’s superb navigation academy and their existing global network that was readily adoptable to military needs.

(*Back in the day, the common abbreviation for Pan American was PAA. The current abbreviation, Pan Am, came later during the jet era.)

During the war, PAA flew special missions for Uncle and a new mission, S.M. Seventy-Two was assigned to Capt. Masland. On January 7, 1943. A Colonel Milton Arnold wanted to meet Masland the following day at his Pentagon office. Masland took the overnight train from New York’s Penn Station and arrived at Arnold’s office with two other PAA officials.

Masland explained, “The colonel was a trim, military figure, as polished and effective as a pair of chrome molly pliers.” He came right to the point. “We want you to take a cargo from Ceylon to Australia. There’s a R.A.F. seaplane base there at Trincomalee on the northeast coast of Ceylon. You would make a refueling stop at Cocos Island, about halfway to Australia, then continue on to a landing at Port Hedland on Australia’s north coast. Can you, do it?”

He looked at the three of us. The other two looked at me. A major obstacle is nobody seemed to know if the Japanese controlled Cocos Island. It turned out the colonel didn’t know the status of Cocos Island either. I asked him, “Can you give us twenty-four hours to make an answer?”

He hesitated a moment then said, “Very well. Twenty-four hours. I expect to hear from you at this time tomorrow.”

Somehow the three of us found seats on the next train for New York even though this was wartime. It was then that I discovered that our proposed cargo was actually three people, three Very Important People, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Joseph Stalin who would all be attending a conference in Casablanca, Morocco from January 14 to 24, 1943. The plan was to transport them to Australia where they would continue the summit with Chiang Kai-shek.

On return to PAA’s operational HQ located at the Marine Air Terminal at LaGuardia (then still referred to as North Beach), I examined charts and records of wind, weather and geography and made as many calculations as I could think of. The answer was that the flight from Ceylon to Australia could be successfully completed without making a stop at Cocos Island. I so advised Col. Arnold the next day.

He replied, “Very well, I’ll be in your office in North Beach at noon, tomorrow” and hung up.

At precisely noon, Colonel Arnold stepped into the office. He led off by announcing, “I want a plane to arrive in Bahrein by January twenty-fifth to be ready to depart the next day for Australia by way of Ceylon, without fail.”

They wouldn’t dare. I thought, just wouldn’t dare to plan to send the president of the United States on a mission as crazy as this one. But they did.

We left New York on the fourteenth with a full crew plus two mechanics. It was a daylight flight, with an overnight stop in Miami while the army loaded the ship. From Miami, we made our way to Port of Spain them to Belem and Natal Brazil before crossing the South Atlantic, destination Lake Tanganyika or Fish Lake, as we aviators called it, located in what was then the Belgian Congo. From there it was an eight-hour flight to Lagos and we ran the engines in high-speed cruise that was good for them as they purred like contented kittens for the first time on this voyage. Next was a direct flight to Khartoum, a flight of fifteen hours.

We left in late afternoon and takeoff was awful. The temperature was over 90 degrees and the available wind, a little more than ten-knots. It took a run of 4,600 feet to free the hull from the surface of the lake allowing us to become airborne. We flew over night and after midnight, it seemed we were flying over a world that apparently belonged to no one but ourselves.

Nearing our destination, the BOAC base, we turned down a stream toward the landing area just as the sky began to lighten in the east. The station manager, a Mr. Fenton, was efficient in meeting our needs and promptly refueling the ship. An American army jeep met me and took me to an army camp in Wadi Saida where a Lt. Cammeron provided all of the information that we would need to enter Bahrein, the major destination for our outbound flight. All that information wrong.

We were up by 4 am the next morning, breakfast at 4:30 and we were off the water of Gordons Tree by five-fifty-nine, one minute earlier than planned. The sun came up twenty minutes later and we laid a course that would take us directly across the Red Sea and the Arabian Desert to Bahrein on the Persian Gulf. Communications were failing so I had Mr. Martin, our radio operator send a simple message to Bahrein: ETA GINNS 1225Z   MASLAND.

The message in clear text represented a flagrant breech of regulations but I was determined that we be expected at our next port of call. My communication worked out and Bahrein was waiting for us. We landed and tied up at one of the BOAC moorings one day early of our January 24th due date.

Days passed and nothing happened  Meanwhile, an army captain flying through Bahrein dropped in to our lounge just before dinner. He gossiped: “Of course, you know you have to wait here until the Casablanca Conference is over. Then you are to fly Roosevelt. Churchill and Stalin out east to meet the Generalissimo.”

The crew sat stunned, mouths open and eyes popping. Of all the people in the Middle East, my crew did not know the details of our secret mission.

Continued in Part Two

Second Addition to My Bucket List

I already published the first addition to my bucket, a list to visit the birthplace of Chicken Tenders at a restaurant in Manchester, NH called the Puritan. Hopefully, I can accomplish this next summer with our friends, Geoff and Judy Jones.

I discovered a second addition, almost a month later in the October 27th edition of The New York Times. The headline read, “To Ride These Rails, You Use Your Own Two Feet.” Written by Michael Harmon, he reported on his experience traveling by rail-bike in New York’s Catskills region along an abandoned railroad still in good condition; four mile out and four miles back.

The right-of-way begins and ends at an old station in the Catskill town of Phoenicia, once owned and operated by the Ulster & Delaware Railroad that ceased running passenger trains in 1954 and all other service in 1976.

Phoenicia is located in the southern Catskills nearby to Kingston, NY, Exit 19 on the Governor Thomas Dewey (NY State) Thruway. Phoenicia is located 20 miles northwest from Thruway exit on Route 28 a day trip from Long Island.

Michael Harmon wrote this for the NYT explaining his experience: “It’s always a thrill to pull out of a train station and feel yourself picking up speed, wheels click-clacking over the rails. It’s even more thrilling when your train has no roof or sides, is as low-slung as a Mazda Miata and comes with a warning to watch out for bears crossing your path.

“I was riding a rail bike, a pedal-powered contraption built to cruise along railroad tracks. Rail-biking opens the door to using existing rails recreationally, with no need to tear up the tracks. In 2015, a company called Rail Explorers started the country’s first rail-biking operation. Today, the company has seven locations and there are now more than dozen rail-biking outfitters running excursions in 16 states from Maine to California.

“My trip – an eight-mile round-trip pedal, much of it paralleling the Esopus Creek – departed from Phoenicia, home to Rail Explorer’s Catskills Division.

“The atmosphere (when we met) was surprisingly upbeat for 8 am on a gray, damp morning before, Sam Huang, our tour leader began a high-energy introduction and safety briefing. ‘These are the Rolls-Royces of rail bikes.’

“Our rides did look pretty slick with painted metal frames, adjustable seats with handles on either side  and even some very Rolls-Royce-built in umbrellas. After demonstrating the raised-fist ‘brake signal’ to alert riders behind you that you are stopping – and reminding us to watch out for wildlife, Mr. Huang let out with a spirited ‘All abord’ and we were dispatched to our assigned rail-bikes. I had booked a tandem rail-bike ($102) suitable for one or two people: Rail Explorers also offer quads ($178) for groups of two to four (the prices are per bike, regardless of the number of riders.”

“One by one, our convoy set off down the line boosted by an electric pedal-assist system that helps make the rail-bikes suitable for all ages and abilities. As I pedaled along, I took in the scenery, glad the crew had generously spaced out our departures from the station giving me the opportunity to have a few times when I felt I had the tracks and the scenery all to myself. Four miles in, we reached the halfway point, stepping off to stretch our legs while the crew turned our bikes around using a turntable.

“After I climbed back on for the return trip, I settled into a rhythm, marveling at the effort it must have taken in the 1860s to lay these tracks flanked by the river on one side and a rocky cliff on the other.”

By the time I read Mr. Harmon’s piece and called the operator, it became clear that Rail Explorers’ 2024 season was coming to an end. I had to wait for the 2025 season that would begin in April so long as winter and the early spring run-off did not compromise the right-pf-way. I hope not and if, all goes well, I’ll share my experience next spring in this blog.